Winchester Model 75 Manual
Can anyone point me in the right direction on how to adjust the trigger pull on a 75 target model? I'd like to get it down around 2 lbs or so. I removed the action from the stock and cleaned and oiled it but it made little difference. Thanks in advance for your time. Howdy old-is-good, Before replying to your question I spent an hour or so looking for the now defunt stevesguns.com which had a very good schiamatic of the 75T.
The 75 series trigger can't be brought down to two lbs. Without some serious safety issues such as firing when bolt is closed, safety won't engage, or the other way, won't fire when trigger is released. Many people here have had some good results by experimenting with longer thinner springs out of ball point pens. You will have to try several to find the right length which needs to be longer to compensate for the thin coils.
Sep 5, 2011 - *Winchester model 75 *Winchester model 69A. I also have some, not many. Rimfire semi-auto.22 pistol manuals and/or exploded views in. Lost that owner's manual for your favorite Winchester firearm? Just need to look something up about your gun and don't want to find your owner's manual? These are owner's manuals unless otherwise noted as being a gunsmith manual! Winchester Model 1886 Lever Action Rifle- Takedown Operations manual.
You could try a bit of streaching, cutting off a couple of coils etc. First since you mentioned that you have taken the action/barrel out of the stock you need to locate the trigger spring adjusting screw in front of the trigger guard with the action/bolt facing down. Carefully remove the screw untill the spring pops out. Put them carefully aside and use a few Q-Tips with bore cleaner to clean out the hole, whatever is below it and the surrounding area until the swabs come out clean. Clean the spring and screw also. Coat with Rem-Oil, and add a drop into the hole where the spring goes. You may now try different springs and try turning the screw in most of the way to ensure that you have resistance.
Turn it out a little little more to reduce trigger resistance etc. Use a spent case to avoid dry fire and try it a few times with each adjustment. I have found that the trigger release lever just to the right of the trigger guard ( I don't have my schematics around me) is the way to adjust for a crisp release.
You will locate this as a narrow strip of steel with one small hold down screw in an elongated adjustable cutout. This release if moved more that a millimeter or two ( that's a very thin pencil line at that) can cause your saftey not to function, the bolt not to cock, or the rifle to fire when the bolt is closed!!! So I say this with all serious trepidations. Don't move it more than a very tiny speck like a few hairs worth. If you move the trigger release lever to the rear, ie.
The butt end just a speck the trigger will release more quickly, with less creep, crisper etc. Giving a feel of a lighter trigger pull. DO NOT USE LIVE ROUNDS IN TESTING THIS!!!! Save a few spent rounds and use them in the chamber to protect the firing pin from dry firing.
Check the function of the saftey. It should work on and off smoothly without hanging up. Cock the bolt several times and close it to be certain that it does not release when closing. Test the trigger pull very slowly so you don't know when it will release to get it's feel.
If you find the correct type of spring you can experiment with the spring screw to add to the pull. Do not allow the combination of spring, spring adjustment, trigger release lever adjustment to get to low as it will be unsafe to carry loaded. Do not ever ever put a round in the chamber unless the barrel is pointing downrange and with a workable saftey in the 'On' position. If you plan to carry the rifle as in hunting, I don't recomend this procedure AT ALL. I use my 1952 75T for 50 and 100 yard target work only and would not use it to carry loaded as in hunting as it is less safe that the factory settings.
Keep in mind, replacement springs not intended for this use and can weaken in time making them less able to hold the trigger back from releasing. Dropping or bumping the rifle may bring about unwanted results. It's all about saftey. Oh, one more thing.
Many of us have ruined trigger components by filing, stoning, over polishing etc. So don't try to get it to be something it can't be like a Jewell Trigger or a model 52 setup which is a completely different design. Easy goes it Plz.
Good Luck, Pete K. Boley, Thanks for your comment. I leaned this by doing it while trying to correct a failure to fire situation (FTF). I was trying to instill the need for saftey, testing and retesting, warnings etc. I did stress at the begining 'WARNING!!!!!! This release if moved more that a millimeter or two (that's a very thin pencil line at that) can cause your saftey not to function, the bolt not to cock, or the rifle to fire when the bolt is closed!!! ' and 'Check the function of the saftey.
It should work on and off smoothly without hanging up'. Cock the bolt several times and close it to be certain that it does not release when closing'. And ' Finally.
Do not ever ever put a round in the chamber unless the barrel is pointing downrange and 'with a workable saftey' in the 'On' to 'off' position. If you plan to carry the rifle as in hunting, I don't recomend this procedure AT ALL.' Also Keep in mind, replacement springs not intended for this use and can weaken in time making them less able to hold the trigger back from releasing. Dropping or bumping the rifle may bring about unwanted results.
It's all about saftey. I figured that I had expressed that testing of all the component parts repeatidly was necessary and that I had covered it. But yes of course you are correct in testing the trigger with the saftey on as it may not work if the sear release lever is moved to far rearward. On another note, if any of you have added a shim to the bolt handle colar, in front or rear on the bolt you may have to move the sear release lever a tiny bit foward equal to the thickness of the shim to make up for the additional spacing. Best to you Boley, Pete K. Webfoot56, Yes the trigger assembly on the 75T and S are the same. Be very carefull, little steps plz.
THANKS FOR THE REPLY PETE! I have had the action out once and have forgot what the trigger assembly looks like. I will for sure just be replacing the spring or clipping a couple of coils off etc. I do not want to make it unsafe to carry. But one little thing I am unclear where that spring is located. Pete is it located on the side or at rear or front or bottom rear.
Thanks for the help in advance. Webfoot56, Sorry it took me so long to answer your question as to where the trigger spring adjusting screw is located. I just now found the schematics of the 69A and 75 series rifles and it is not to easy to see the detail but I got it clear in my head now.
The diagram is with the rifle laid with the butt end to the left and the trigger and clip down. To remove the barrel the screw in front of the trigger guard ( the stock stud screw) which holds the barrel down into the stock needs to be removed and the front barrel band also.
In front of the trigger (bore end to the right) you will find two screws that are the magazine holder screws. Leave them alone. Just to the rear of these ( butt end ) is the trigger spring adjusting screw. You can carefully remove it all the way out and you may feel a little pressure from the trigger spring so expect it to try to pop out. It may or may not do this. Anyway, remove the spring and put it and the screw aside.
I like to use an easy to remove tape to keep little thing like these from running away and hiding forever and to keep them in order for replacement. Now you can go at the hole and parts inside with a few swabs and a bit of bore cleaner until they come out clean. Use a few more swabs to dry and one with a drop of Rem-Oil to lube. Do the spring and screw the same way.
Put the spring in a small zip loc bag and visit your local hardware store for some spring shopping. If you can find some that are longer, thinner with more coils and thinner wire and flat ends buy several different ones to experiment with. Use spent rounds to keep the firing pin from slamming into the firing pin stop pin (that's what it's called) ie. No dry firing. While your into the guts of the thing, notice how the tigger is held into the trigger base with a pin. I would examine this carefully before you clean it all like above so you can re-assemble if the little pin drops out and the trigger winds up in your hand.
That is not a bad thing as you can clean the saftey and saftey lock plunger, saftey screw etc. While your in there. A light coating of rem-oil, a carefully snug re-assembly and it all should work great when you find the correct spring. Does anyone have a schematic that you can scan and send?
My little Nikon shakes to much!! Or, order a schematic from Numrich Gun Parts. Good Luck and be safe. Check the saftey with the bolt cocked, chamber unloaded, work saftey on and off, slam bolt closed etc. Use fired brass not live rounds. Hi Webfoot56, I was not happy with the poor schematic pictures.
I experimented with my little Nikon E5600 and did a little better. Try to see if you can make these out. 9975 Trigger pin 9575A Trigger and Saftey Lock Assembly 9875 Trigger Base 10075 Trigger Spring 10175 Trigger Spring Adjusting Screw 7575 Saftey Lever 7575A Saftey Lever Stop Pin 7775 Saftey Lock 7775A Saftey Lock Stop Pin 7875 Saftey Lock Screw 7975 Saftey Lock Plunger 8075 Saftey Lock Plunger Spring If I missed anything you need to know about just ask and I will reply. If you didn't read the info on tuning your front barrel band try this. While the barrel/action is still out of the stock clean the stock channel and rub in some stock wax (bees wax from Wally World) and the rest of the stock, under the butt plate etc.
When you reassemble the barrel don't tighten down on the front barrel band much more than say medium light to medium. Test fire at the range for accuracy with best known ammo ( Elley, Lapua M or L), tighten the barrel band screw a half turn, retest groups with 10 to 15 rounds etc. To find the sweet spot for the barrel. I have my 1952 'T' down to it's favorite ammo, Lapua Master or Midas ($$$) 'L'.224. Yours may like the 'M'.223. Or Eley Match etc.
With my trigger as good as it gets ie. Light and crisp and no breeze it gives 5 round groups of.5' at 100 yrds.
It is so accurate that I have to experiment on sholder hold and trigger methods. I place my right thumb behind the trigger guard and the last joint of my index finder on the lowest part of the trigger.
I squeeze the two fingers together not wanting to know when the round will fire. I then attempt to keep the Olympic Long Tube aperature on the target for a half second or so after firing. I know that my 75T is not an Anschutz, Model 52, Rem 513, or 40X but is still challenging me as a shooter to match its capabilities and that is all I want and being a beauty, makes me proud at the range.
The local SWAT guys practice near me and they have seen the results of a good target rifle, the exact correct ammunition, sighting method and what a lot of practice can acheive. They use the best equiptment that they can obtain and know that my Winny can achieve nearly similiar results from 50 to 100 yards with way less equiptment and cost. Webfoot56, When you get your trigger project finished please order some Lapua Master in 'L' & 'M' and some Elley Match black box and work on groups. Lower speed stuff in the 1066 fps approx. Works best in these target rifles with match chambers. Winchester Model 75 owners manual; They are available for a few bucks from Peter Zimmerman 6116 E.Harrys Rd Traverse City,MI 49683.
Winchester Model 75 Manual
That's all, I'm done!! Best, Pete K. Pete that had to take you a while to prepare all of this information.
Winchester Model 75 Manual
A big thank you from me and any other rimfire shooters who can use this information. Oh by the way that is a nice looking 75 you have. I have a sporter that was made in the last couple years before they ceased production. It is grooved and has the original hang tags with it. I have shot it maybe 10 or fifthteen rounds downrange the accuracy looks promising.
Winchester Model 75 Value
I have to get the trigger to where I want it and then get some clear glass mounted on it. THANKS FOR ALL YOU HAVE DONE!