Briggs And Stratton Model 80232 Manual

• Briggs And Stratton Model 287707
• Where To Find Briggs And Stratton Model Number
• Briggs And Stratton Model 80232 Manual

Owners Manuals are available as.pdf's. Simply choose a link below to view Owners Manuals for that category. Produced From, Model No. 1975 Briggs & Stratton Model 80202 3hp. Briggs & Stratton Clean Change Points small 5hp plus more - Duration: 14:12. Sixtyfiveford 45,154 views.

Briggs And Stratton Model 287707

This engine came mounted on a Arco mini bike( I am aware that is not the original motor ). I was wondering is worth to get it running being 3hp? Are parts easy to find to rebuild let say carburetor, air box. The tank shows some rust on the inside and after taking off the cover the flywheel shows some rust especially on the thin flap that connects to the throttle set up but missing a spring that was all rusted away,the engine spins freely. Some pics are posted here also is this the right manual?. How is the power of this engine compared to lets say the doodle bug stock 2.8HP motor?

Just trying to get an idea if it's worth the time and money,instead of just installing either a 79cc or a 212cc predator? Thanks in advance. For rust in the tank, there are many methods. For rusted tanks I use plain White Vinegar.

Put in a hand full of dry wall screws. Fill 1/2 way with vinegar.

Shake it around let it sit a few hours. Shake the snot out it it and let it sit a few hours over and over. When you are done and you dump out the vinegar, rinse thoroughly with water, blow dry and immediately coat the inside of the tank with oil, penetrating spray etc otherwise it will flash rust in a heart beat. If the rust is light a good method is a dry tank, hand full of dry wall screws, wrap tank in towels or a blanket, throw in the cloths dryer for 1/2 hour with no heat. Evaporust is supposed to work. Acetone and screws, Marvel Mystery oil and screws heck even WD40 and screws. I also heard of BB's being used, regular small nuts and bolts etc.

The dry wall screws have sharp edges and points and do a nice job though. Let us know what you do and how it works. Danford1 PS I have an air powered paint shaker for a gallon can. I thought of trying some silica sand blasting sand in a dry tank hooked in the paint shaker for awhile. I never did that though. It shakes pretty violently and screws might damage the tank. I thought of a potential problem on your Briggs tank.

Where To Find Briggs And Stratton Model Number

Briggs And Stratton Model 80232 Manual

Does your tank have that small well that holds gas for the carb? The carb would have a long tube that goes to the bottom of the tank and another tube or protrusion that sucks the fuel from the shallow cup or well. If that cup or well is rusty and thin and you shake the crap out of a tank full of drywall screws, you may ruin the well. In a case like that I would just fill the tank to the brim with vinegar and let it do it's thing for a couple days. Vinegar eats rust it just take a long time to do it. If that cup or well has holes or perforations in it, use regular JB and coat the well to seal it.

Gas and gasohol don't seem to effect cured JB weld. The way those Briggs carbs work is fuel is constantly being sucked up from the bottom of the tank through the long tube and empties into that well keeping it full and overflowing back into the tank. The well is like your float bowl level. Fuel for the engine is sucked from the shallow well into the carb. It is a smart design as no float or needle and seat are needed. But if that well can't hold a supply of fuel, then the engine will be very hard to start. Fuel stays in that well when you turn off the engine waiting for you when you go to start it again.

If there is a hole and the fuel drains out, then you have to pull and pull to fill the well before the engine can run again. Make sure you clean out the tiny orifice that the fuel flows through into the carb. There should be some sort of fine filter mesh sock on that short tube to filter the fuel.

That needs to be clean and in good shape too. That thin rubber diaphragm with the two tabs or flaps under the cover on the side of the carb is the fuel pump. That uses intake pulses to suck the fuel up the long tube and empties it into the well. The flaps act like one way valves.

That rubber diaphragm needs to be in good shape also. If not, the engine is hard to start and won't run good above idle because the well won't have a full supply of gas for it to run good. Depending on how bad the rust in the tank is I would first use BBs and about 1/2' of gasoline and shake it for a few minutes and drain it to get the worst of it out. Use fresh gasoline each time and keep doing this until the gasoline comes out fairly clear. Then remove all gasoline and BBs and get yourself some 'Evaporust' and fill up the tank and upper reservoir cup completely and let it set for about 12 hours.

Then pour out the Evaporust and inspect inside. You can save the 'used' Evaporust and use again for future jobs. Finally, rinse out the tank and upper cup a few times with fresh gasoline and you should be good to go. My experiences with vinegar is that it does work, however, takes a LONG time, generally AT LEAST a few days.