2015 4l60e Rebuild Manual
90 gmc k2500 4×4 180,000. Strong tranny and smooth but every once in a great while it wont come out of 1st. Neighbor said put it in neutral,moving or not and stomp the throttle to the floor about 3 times then put back in drive. Probably done it 10 times over 5+ years and works every time. This was after i changed the shift solenoid and changed fluid and filter, which didn't work.
He said its usually caused by dirt in the valve body. The high throttle boosts fluid pressure and clears the blockage. Got the same problem in a 2008 silverado. I have a after market intake and it slipped off causing the trans to get hot. Now i have ticking noises coming from the cluster and the led line under the gear on the cluster disappeared.
Shifts into 2nd gear but not into 3rd the rpms just go across the gauge. I changed the oil and filter nothing changed.
Amazon.com: ATSG 4L60E /4L65E Update Handbook GM THM Transmission Update Repair Manual (4L60E Transmission Rebuild Kit - 4L60E Shift Kit 4L60E Valve Body - Best Repair Book Available!). 4l60 Rebuild Manual 4L60E Transmission Deluxe Overhaul Rebuild Kit 1993-1996 GM Chevy Chevrolet GM THM. Updated: 2015-02-13 700R4 rebuild. Rebuilding a 4L60e transmission may not sound difficult, but the best idea is to leave this. Basic Steps to Rebuilding the 4L60E Transmission January 7, 2014.
Then i saw trans goes into a safe mode i figured that was the problem because my truck problems match safe mode problems the fix is to disconnect the battery let it reset itself so i did so and it shifted into 3rd nevertheless about 5 miles later it was back broke. The band that runs 2nd and Overdrive burns up when you have a failure in either of those gears.
Your transmission jumps from 1st to 3rd, seems like second but at too high an rpm. This is 3rd gear. I have a 89 Sierra C1500 SLX with a TBI 305. Something is going on that breaks my throttle valve cable plastic buckle.
2 transmissions later, I still cant pin point it. The first one was in the truck since way before I bought it.
Got it in May 2016, had been sitting for 2 years. Cab mounts needed new metal (frame bracket) and new bushings. It needs the valve seals changed, constantly burns oil. Could valve seals, burning oil in the cylinder cause the throttle to lag, sputter, or knock, and cause my throttle valve cable to break.
Specialist said 9.9 out of 10 times when a cable breaks like that it because the cable's adjustment, geometry, placement, and or routing will cause the failure in the plastic buckle at the throttle end of your cable. (thats where mine broke, twice). Just a heads up for you guys. Being a former Chevrolet Technician I can tell you that is a common failure on the early model 700R4.
Up until 1993 the trans used a TV cable for throttle input to the trans. In 1993 the trans was redesigned and now has shift solenoids for shift control. No longer does it have a TV cable or Governor. The Governor was for road speed and the TV cable was for throttle input. Now the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and the TPS (throttle position sensor) are the inputs to the TCM or PCM depending on model year to control shifts.
The electronic control module will calculate the proper shifts on variations of these two inputs. The early 700R4 had numerous design changes to make it more robust. But one of the best changes was when it went to electronic shift control in 1993. The line pressure was now also controlled electronically and enhanced the longivity of this trans.
I speak from personal experience as we repaired the early model frequently for burned 3-4 clutch plates which is very likely the problem the earlier posters had. At times it was not known just what caused the loss of pressure to burn the plates as there are a number of factors involved. I just came across this site and I see the posts are old but decided to add this note in case someone in the future would come here. A little history: I rebuilt the 700 in my 89 K1500 and it was doing great. I put about a 1000 miles on it, when I noticed when driving it my gas milage dropped off and it felt like the brakes were applied. I pulled the truck up an incline shifed to netural and it just sit there.
I had to put it into reverse to get it to move down hill. I some troubleshooting and found the lock rear end was binding up. This put a load on my drive train and the transmission was running hot. This also had an effect on the shift up/down. Might consider checking the fluid level in the rear end and dirty fluid. I am curious as to what the GM tranny guy thinks about this?
Thanks to all. There are no 'shifting modules' inside the transmission. As Mr Zimmerman stated, the later units(renamed as 4L60E) used electronic shifting and pressure controls.
The module which controls the transmission may be part of the PCM(controls engine and transmission) or a TCM(controls just the transmission). The transmission in this case will contain pressure switches, a torque converter clutch solenoid, shift control solenoids and a duty cycle controlled pressure control solenoid. The earlier 700R4 and non electronic 4L60 were controlled by a hydraulic valve body and received throttle input, as stated above, from the TV cable.
4l60e Rebuild Manual Download
This cable is often mistaken for a 'kick down' cable as used in the TH350. The TV cable in the 700 plays a much more important role than simply commanding forced down shift. It is crucial in controlling line pressure to the hydraulic components of the transmission and incorrect adjustment will affect shift behavior and leads to early failure. The 3-4 clutch pack is a common failure item in this transmission, due mostly to the design of the input drum where the 3-4 clutch resides.
The clutch pack installs at the rvery rear of the drum and is held in place by a snap ring. The thin backing plate of the clutch holds back the apply pressure with only the snap ring to keep it in place.
Atsg 4l60e Rebuild Manual
The backing plate flexes under this pressure rather than maintain even pressure on the clutches. The clutches slip and burn up. For years, builders of this unit have tried to work through this, using various hi performance clutch designs. There is a new part available from the Sonnax company named the 'Smart Tech input drum that appears to offer a permanent solution to the problem. This is especially important when the unit will be used in a racing or heavy duty application, behind a hi output motor.
2015 4l60e Rebuild Manual Pdf
There are several other items that affect the 3-4 clutch as well. The 3rd gear accumulator, which is part of the 2nd gear servo assembly, absorbs the shock of the 3-4 clutch apply. The accumulator is a piston with a sealing ring around it. If the sealing ring fails, apply pressure to the clutch will bleed off and the clutch will slip and burn. If the 2nd gear band servo doesn't release quickly enough when 3rd gear applies, the 3-4 clutch pack will burn up.
If the trans oil pump doesn't produce sufficient pressure, the clutches will slip and burn. The input shaft is also a conduit for oil pressure from the pump to the various clutches. Sealing rings are used to isolate the circuits from each other. If these sealing rings leak. Pressure will bleed between circuits and cause clutches to slip and burn. The TV cable MUST be installed and connected to the throttle arm and adjusted properly for the transmission to operate properly. Failure to do this will result in slipping shifts and poor performance and will eventually result in transmission failure.
Cable brackets and cables are available on Jegs or Summit to enable proper TV cable geometry/travel. Adjustment is easily done once the cable is properly installed, press in on the side of the adjuster body (a button like thing, its metal) on the throttle end and push the adjuster all the way into the adjuster body. Release the 'button' and slowly open the throttle completely by hand, it will be a bit tight doing so. The adjuster will come out of the adjuster body to the proper distance, and you're all set. Thanks for all the new info do think that i have the same problem as you talked about above. I have a 1990 s10 4x4 with 4.3 motor.
It shifts great but then starts to slip in 3rd and over drive almost as if its in neutral but if i shift it to 2nd gear then back to drive it works then starts to slip again and only revs when i give it gas so i shift it down by hand again to 2nd and back to drive it works for a few then it does the same thing like its not in gearthe fluids good not burnt and all gears work fine just acts like its going in and out of gear can you give me any clue what may be the problem with it buddy. If the 700R4 won't shift out of first gear, it's most likely the governor. The governor is under the tin cover on the LH side, towards the rear of the case. You can pull the cover with large channel locks. I use a pair of dust cover pliers that remove the cover without damaging it.
With the cover off, the governor pulls straight out. Look for the plastic gear to be stripped. If the gov gear is okay, check the valve for sticking. If the governor checks out, you will need to remove the pan and valve body to check for a stuck valve or valves. The first thing I would check would be the 1-2 shift valve train, next would be the modulated up shift valve. If you don't understand what these things are, you probably aren't ready to dig into the 700R4. It is a fairly complicated unit.
I will tell you that there is great information available for this transmission. The ATSG rebuild manual is a must have if you are going to disassemble the unit. The GM '700R4 Principles of Operation 2nd edition' circa 1983, is a very good book to have and read thoroughly before you think about repairing this transmission. This book was printed by GM for their factory techs and provides a very detailed description of the unit's design and operation. Just a hint for those serious about learning this transmission, this book is out there for free download if you do some searching. Try a Google search using the name as stated in quotation marks above.
Something I should add concerning any automatic transmission: Before you get too deep into trying to fix it, drop the pan and check out the amount of metal on the magnet. Also take a good look at the fluid. If the fluid is cloudy(friction material), or if there is more than about a teaspoon of metal on the magnet. It's probably time for an overhaul.
Any repair at this point, short of a complete overhaul may be of limited success. If you want to learn more about this family of transmissions, purchase an ATSG rebuild manual and study it. Also, the GM '700R4 Principles of Operation' is a great book. GM published this book in 1981, with a second edition in 1983, for their factory technicians. It provides great detail on the design and operation of this transmission.
It is available for sale and it can also be found as a pdf download(free) through a Google search. The ATSG book is a must have for rebuilding this unit and the GM book is the most detailed technical publication I've found yet. Also, there are great videos on youtube, some of the best by Hiram Gutierrez, on the disassembly and rebuild of the 4L60E, which aside from the valve body, is exactly the same as the 700R4. Is there a possibility that the shift servo could be the culprit???
Unless the copper flash checkball has been removed from the valvebody, having the TV cable disconnected should cause late harsh shifts because it causes the TV boost valve to default to high line pressure. It should not cause slipping in 3rd.
Most likely cause of this problem is damaged 3-4 clutches. It could also be a rolled or cut 3-4 piston lip seal or a cut or damaged sealing ring on the turbine shaft. It is also possible that the 3rd accumulator checkball is not sealing. This isn't so much an issue with the 2-4 servo assembly.
It is however related since the 2nd servo is also the 3rd accumulator. The 3rd accumulator checkball is open in 2nd gear and allows the 2nd servo to move and engage the 2-4 band. When the unit shifts to 3rd gear, pressure is applied to the release side, or 3rd accumulator side of the 2nd servo. This closes the 3rd accumulator checkball and forces the servo back releasing the 2-4 band. This same pressure also applies the 3-4 clutch. Most likely though, it's just burned up 3-4 clutches.
Huge failure item. It's time to speak out for your right to repair We have a chance to guarantee our right to repair electronic equipment—like smartphones, computers, and even farm equipment. This is a once-in-a-generation chance to protect local repair jobs—the corner mom-and-pop repair shops that keep getting squeezed out by manufacturers. Join the cause and tell your state representative to support Right to Repair. Tell them you believe repair should be fair, affordable, and accessible. Stand up for your right to repair!
Engines get all the glory, but without a stout transmission backing it up even the most exotic mill is nothing more than a noisemaker. And as engines keep putting out more and more power, the transmissions backing them up start to fail on a far too frequent basis.
This is especially true of automatics. After all, there’s a lot going on in there and high-performance engines generate high amounts of transmission-killing heat. Audi a3 2005 s line. If all that heat wasn’t bad enough, they’re also subjected to loads of metal-twisting, shaft-snapping torque. A stock 4L60E transmission is fine behind a stock GM engine, but if you’re reading this magazine then chances are the word “stock” isn’t part of your lexicon. Some guys will spend big bucks getting their LS engine to churn out 600, 700, or even more horsepower and then cheap out on the transmission.
You can spot them easily: they’re the ones griping and complaining about breaking yet another “junk” transmission. What did they think was going to happen? Let me repeat, stock transmissions (and that 4L60E with a shift kit really is still stock where it counts) are designed to reside behind relatively stock engines. It’s really that simple. PerformaBuilt Transmissions is run by car guys and they’ve learned what makes a transmission handle big power and what’s just a waste of cash. Their Stage 2 Pro Race transmission can handle gobs of power while their Invincible Black Edition 4L60E trans can support over 1,000 ponies. That’s a power level where you used to have to move to a heavier 4L80E, but not anymore—and that’s good news for those of us trying to shoehorn a transmission into a tight trans tunnel.
As PerformaBuilt’s Alan Pickering told us, “We don’t just rebuild transmissions. Instead, we systematically re-engineer each model to eliminate OEM flaws and turn out transmissions that can achieve the highest levels of performance.” They also perform extensive testing. “All units are tested at various points during the build process, including a half hour on our custom dyno.
We run it through all the shifts, up and down, from cold start through operating temperature. Afterwards, we test each of the solenoids and switches to make sure they’re still in range when hot,” remarked Pickering. To see what’s involved, we stopped by their shop and watched them craft together one of their sweet Level 3 Black Edition 4L60E transmissions.